Two Americans have spent the past two weeks climbing the imposing, nearly 3,000 foot (914 metre) tall granite surface of El Capitan’s Dawn Wall. They are expected to complete the climb Wednesday or Thursday, making the two men the first to free climb the steep cliff.
El Capitan is a large rock formation in California’s Yosemite National Park. A smooth, nearly 3,000 foot surface on the El Capitan known as the Dawn Wall has worldwide recognition as an almost impossibly difficult surface to climb because the wall offers few footholds. All climbers who have reached the summit of Dawn Hall, including Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell who reached the top in 1970, did so with the aid of ropes.
Since December 27, experienced climbers Kevin Jorgeson, 30, and Tommy Caldwell, 36 (no relation to Dean Caldwell), have been scaling the Dawn Wall without the aid of ropes, pegs or other climbing gear. As they free climb the wall, Jorgeson and Caldwell are only using safety ropes to prevent falls rather than to aid the climb.
Jorgeson and Caldwell stop every so often to rest and make camp, sleeping and eating in collapsible shelters called portaledges, suspended on the side of the cliff. The portaledges are about four feet by six feet, and the climbers have a stove with them to cook dried pasta and vegetables. When nature calls they answer it using wag bags, which are bags that contain a powdered gel compound that neutralizes waste.
Jorgeson and Caldwell often climb at night because friction is stronger in the cool, night air. They rely on friction to maintain a stronger grip on the rock surface. Warm air also causes their hands to sweat, making it easier for them to lose their grip.
Recently, Jorgeson lagged behind Caldwell for a week because his fingertips had become so injured by the climb. When climbers free climb as the two men are doing, their fingers often hold onto cracks as thin as blades and small indentations in the wall, causing the skin on their fingers to eventually tear away and bleed.
On Monday night, Jorgeson finally caught up with Caldwell at the Wino Tower section of the cliff and the two men are expected to complete the climb within a couple days.
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